Author: thewatchwriter_bxif3w

In my job, I have the pleasure of meeting many brilliant horologists. I respect the profession as both a science and an art form. Recently, I have crossed paths with someone who embraces
the role of scientist and artist better than perhaps any I’ve encountered before. We sat down for a chat recently as I wanted to tell his story and he obliged. I’d like to introduce my friend, Oscar Raggi.

Oscar’s Introduction to Horology

I love turning a phrase, as they say, but I couldn’t have described Oscar’s upbringing in horology better than he did:

“Growing up amidst the intricate world of watchmaking, where every tick of the clock held a whisper of magic, shaped the very fabric of my being. It was a realm woven with the threads of
time and craftsmanship, where my father, a maestro of horology tracing back three generations, cast his spell upon me.

His workshop, a sanctuary of ticking treasures and gleaming gears, became my sacred ground, a place where I learned to dance with the delicate movements of timepieces. From tender
years, I stood by his side, an eager apprentice to his artistry. Amidst the scent of oil and the gentle hum of machinery, I absorbed the secrets of the trade, each turn of the screw a lesson,
each delicate balance wheel a heartbeat of fascination.

While other children were building castles from LEGO bricks, I fashioned my dreams from the intricate mechanisms of vintage alarm clocks and stately table clocks. With nimble fingers and a thirst for knowledge, I delved into the labyrinthine depths of horological lore, honing my craft with each delicate touch.”

Oscar went on to tell me about how he completed his first watch repair at just 8 years old! While it was a simple battery change, I’m not sure my 8 year old could operate with precision like that. His first major timepiece repair came at age 15, when he repaired an ancient pendulum clock. Truthfully, I’ve seldom heard a story of someone more deeply raised on watchmaking. It’s the way watchmakers have been trained for hundreds of years but not the way watchmakers tend to learn the craft in the modern era.

Professional Career

After serving as an apprentice to his father as a child, Oscar traveled from his home country of Italy to Switzerland to attend various schools and trainings. He traveled throughout Switzerland, completing internships in Pesaux, Le Landeron, and other locations. Once he completed those internships, Oscar trained at ETA and W.O.S.T.E.P. to learn the ins and outs of quartz movements, escapements, balance springs, and chronograph complications.

While many of us would consider that a sufficient education, Oscar wanted to be the best watchmaker in Italy, so he went on to learn about repair and mechanics for Audemars Piguet,
Omega, IWC, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Panerai, and Rolex. While he loved working on some of the brands – especially Audemars Piguet and Jaeger-LeCoultre, Oscar knew that he wanted to open an independent workshop so he could keep the fierce independence from which watchmaking originated centuries ago alive. So to that end, Oscar started his workshop in Italy.

In starting his shop, one of Oscar’s goals was to be an exclusive authorized watchmaker for several brands in Italy without having a direct brand affiliation. This would allow him
independence but also frequent business. He achieved this goal and later set his sights higher, on keeping his craft alive. But more on that later. A point of pride for Oscar is that he is one of
the few modern watchmakers who can service antique clocks – including those so old that parts no longer exist. Oscar has such an innate knowledge of movements that he can find or create substitute parts to make them run again.

Oscar makes a point of being nimble and resourceful enough to service a myriad of timepiece styles and technology. However, his greatest strength is in mechanical movements – both
vintage and modern, high-tech timepieces. From the outside looking in, I think he has a personal affinity for timepieces of historical significance. One such example is his recent
restoration of a Leonidas chronograph with a flyback function – a watch known on a colloquial basis as the “bomb dropper.” 

This World-War II antique timepiece was one of many that helped win the war and, in essence, unleashed an entire era of wristwatches. For Oscar, he was humbled to repair the timepiece because it helped him feel connected to the heroes of history who held that watch and others like it.

The Next Generation…

Speaking of history, Oscar is deeply motivated by keeping the history of horology alive decades and centuries into the future. Since most horologists and watch fans today do not get the
privilege of growing up in a watchmaker’s workshop, he is taking on the challenge of training the next generation of expert watchmakers. Oscar’s goal is to start an independent school of haute horology. He says that “this institution will be dedicated to providing the highest level of education in watchmaking, blending traditional craftsmanship with modern techniques.” That’s a strong theme for everything Oscar does – the classical and the modern coexisting. Oscar has always remained independent in his craft so he wants his school to be the same.
Independent watchmakers are the best way to keep all watchmaking technologies and skills alive. After all, there are such a vast variety of movements in wristwatches today, not to mention all the techniques used in centuries past. To stick to one or even a handful of brands would be to handicap the student and stifle his or her learning.

As he now resides in New York, he aims to create his school in one of the greatest cities in the world. Perhaps the origination point of Bulova will be the point from which the next great watchmaking school comes?

Aside from his plans to create a watchmaking school, Oscar has one more big project on the horizon: to build and sell his own timepieces. In the same vein of classical meeting modern,
Oscar wants his timepieces to “seamlessly blend tradition with innovation, craftsmanship with technology, and elegance with functionality.” Imagine watches that have elements of traditional, historical horology as well as modern, cutting-edge designs. He intends to be thoroughly involved in all aspects of the watchmaking for these pieces so they will be incredibly limited edition – probably in the ballpark of 25 per year.

For someone who has accomplished so much in his career, he will not rest on his laurels but rather wants to widen his impact. Being one of the top watchmakers in Italy was to Oscar but a
stepping stone to creating a top watchmaking school in the United States. I’m guessing Oscar Raggi is a name you will hear many times over the coming years.

From its humble beginnings to its prominence during pivotal historical moments, the journey of Benrus watches weaves through decades of innovation and style. Benrus is a watch brand headquartered in America and whose history is intertwined with the country’s history.  Benrus walks the line between luxury and everyday wear and its prices are within grasp of most watch fanatics.  In this blog post, let’s explore the captivating history of Benrus and its enduring legacy in the world of horology.

The Founding Years of Benrus Watches

Founded in New York in 1921 by three Romanian immigrants—Benjamin Lazrus, Ralph, and Oscar—it wasn’t until the 1930s that Benrus solidified its position in the watchmaking industry. The company quickly gained a reputation for producing high-quality timepieces that combined precision with a distinctive design aesthetic.

Military Contracts and World War II

One of the defining chapters in Benrus’s history unfolded during World War II. The brand played a significant role by supplying timepieces to the U.S. military. Benrus watches, known for their durability and accuracy, became standard issue for American servicemen. The iconic Benrus Type I and Type II military watches were born during this era, featuring legible dials and robust construction.

Post-War Prosperity and Innovation

As the post-war era ushered in an era of prosperity, Benrus continued to innovate. The company introduced the “Dial-O-Rama,” a patented system that allowed wearers to change the appearance of the watch dial, reflecting the spirit of versatility and style of the time.

Iconic Designs and Collaborations

Benrus’s commitment to both functionality and fashion was further solidified in the 1950s and 1960s. The brand collaborated with renowned designers, resulting in iconic timepieces that seamlessly blended form and function. Notably, the “Ultra-Deep” dive watch and the “Sky Chief” chronograph became symbols of Benrus’s commitment to both technical prowess and elegant design.

The Vietnam War and the DTU-2A/P

During the Vietnam War, Benrus once again played a crucial role by providing the U.S. military with the DTU-2A/P, a watch designed for pilots and navigators. With its distinctive asymmetrical case, the DTU-2A/P remains a coveted collector’s item and a testament to Benrus’s contribution to military horology.

The Quartz Revolution and Aftermath

As the 1970s brought about the Quartz Revolution, Benrus, like many traditional watchmakers, faced challenges. The company underwent changes in ownership and management, adapting to the shifting landscape of the industry.  In recent years, the Benrus name has experienced a revival, with a focus on reinterpreting classic designs for a contemporary audience. The brand continues to honor its heritage while embracing modern technology and style.

The history of Benrus watches is a compelling narrative that reflects the brand’s resilience, innovation, and commitment to excellence. From military partnerships that shaped the course of history to iconic designs that have stood the test of time, Benrus watches embody the spirit of American watchmaking. As the brand looks toward the future, it carries with it a legacy of craftsmanship and style that has left an indelible mark on the world of horology. In the hands of collectors and enthusiasts, Benrus watches continue to tell the story of an enduring commitment to precision and elegance.  Check out the whole collection here.  

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The Electricianz stands out as a watch brand that electrifies the industry – defying centuries-old trends. Blending creativity, functionality, and a nod to the world of electrical engineering, The Electricianz has carved a niche for itself. As this is one of my favorite watch brands, I wanted to take a few minutes to explore its unique identity, design philosophy, and the innovation that sets it apart.  For more on the brand or to pick one up for yourself – check them out here.

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A Shock of Creativity

Founded in 2017, The Electricianz is a Swiss watch brand that draws inspiration from the world of electricity and industrial design. Electricianz’s founder, Laurent Rufenacht, and creative director, Arnaud Duval, helped build the SEVENFRIDAY watch brand prior to starting their new brand – invaluable experience to help them shake up the watch industry once again.  The Electricianz brand embraces a bold and unconventional approach to watchmaking, infusing its timepieces with a vibrant energy that captures the essence of electricity.

The Electricianz Design Aesthetic

1. Cable-Z Concept:
At the heart of The Electricianz’s design is the Cable-Z concept. Resembling an exposed electrical circuit, a distinctive cable runs through the transparent glass and across the dial of each watch. This design not only adds a dynamic visual element but also serves as a metaphor for the energy coursing through the watch.

2. Industrial Chic:
The timepieces from The Electricianz exude an industrial and urban vibe. With bold colors, unconventional shapes, and materials like stainless steel and leather, the watches are a statement of modernity and creativity. The brand successfully bridges the gap between classic watchmaking and contemporary aesthetics.

3. LED Backlighting:
A standout feature of The Electricianz watches is the LED backlighting system. Activated with a simple touch, it illuminates the cable and highlights the intricate details of the dial. This not only adds a practical aspect for reading the time in low-light conditions but also enhances the watch’s futuristic appeal.

Collections That Spark Interest

The Electricianz offers a diverse range of collections, each with its own distinctive character:

1. The Steel Z Collection:
This collection combines elegance with an industrial edge. The watches in this series are versatile, suitable for both formal occasions and everyday wear.

2. The Nylon Collection:
As the name suggests, this collection embraces nylon in the cables within the watch, the strap, or both.  This diverse collection has 8 models, each with its own flair and design scheme.  You simply must check these out…

3. The Mechanical Collection:
My personal favorite, the Mechanical Collection utilizes hybrid power – a self-winding automatic movement for the timepiece and an electronic module consisting of a printed circuit board with a lithium battery to power the lights.

Beyond Aesthetics: Quality and Craftsmanship

While The Electricianz is celebrated for its bold design choices, the brand doesn’t compromise on the quality of its timepieces. Each watch is crafted with precision and houses a reliable Swiss movement, ensuring accurate timekeeping. The use of high-quality materials contributes to the durability and longevity of these unique watches.

The Electricianz Community

Beyond the tangible appeal of its watches, The Electricianz has cultivated a vibrant community of enthusiasts who share a passion for innovation and individuality. The brand’s commitment to creativity extends beyond the watches themselves, fostering a sense of belonging among its followers.

In the world of watchmaking, where tradition often takes center stage, The Electricianz boldly ventures into uncharted territory. With its Cable-Z concept, LED backlighting, and industrial design aesthetic, the brand sparks a new conversation about what a watch can be. The Electricianz watches are not just timepieces; they are statements of creativity, individuality, and a celebration of the electrifying energy that courses through the world of horology.